• Annual. Freely re-seeds itself.
• Grows 2-3 feet high.
• Plant in Spring or Fall.
• Full sun to partial shade. Soil: Any well-drained.
• Growing instructions included.

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Papaver paeoniflorum.

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4 of our best selling Peony Poppies together in one easy mix for you.

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They are a favorite of gardeners in every state for rock gardens, flower beds, containers, and most anyplace that you want color.

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Best answer:

Answer by goblugal
Jenn – there aren’t too many perennials that bloom “most of the summer”, especially those that do well in the shade. How about something that has foliage impact, like painted ferns?

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Just roll out this pre-seeded garden mat, water, and watch for flowers to bloom! Seeds are sandwiched between layers of protective mulch, so there’s no need to weed, work, or worry. Instructions included. 6′ long x 7″ wide. We apologize for any inconvenience, however, this item is not available for shipment to Canada.

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I’ve decided that I’d like to grow a lot more flowers and plants (sort of a cross between a country garden and a jungle…I live in south Texas) but I’m not sure what to do to prepare the beds. I plan to plant perennials and annuals that behave that way in this climate with the goal of covering the entire bed with plants (to choke out the weeds LOL).

Would it be better in the long run to dig out all the rocks and start from scratch?

Or did the previous owners (who owned a landscaping company) know something about the soil around here (hard-packed clay) that favored leaving the layer of rock to provide drainage…or does that layer of rock store water (a form of xeriscaping perhaps?…most of the plants there now are low water use and those I’ve planted in the areas with thicker top soil rarely require watering)????

Should I just dump on some more top soil and leave the rocks in place?

…and if you think removing the rocks would be best, I’m wondering if digging them out by hand (and hauling them to the landfill) is the only option…seems like such a waste. Would a heavy-duty rental tiller be able to cut through those rocks and the fabric or would it just jam up?…I think if I could find a way to loosen up the entire mess I could pick/sift out enough of the rocks to reuse in another place and leave all the dirt in place. …and I have already tried digging out the rock in a smaller bed and it was so difficult I just ended up covering it with more rock…you can’t get through the clay with a shovel unless it is wet…and when it is wet, it is so sticky that it gums up the shovel…takes me about an hour to dig a hole for a 10″ potted plant!

Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated.

Best answer:

Answer by SleepingFox
It’s hard to say without seeing the soil, but based on your description, the rocks should do fine in terms of promoting drainage, particularly if the soil is clay like and often compacted.
The fabric itself is used to keep weeds from growing; pay it no mind; you can even add more once you put your own garden in.
A rototiller will not cut through rocks- you’ll end up owing a big bill for replacement parts.
As far as adding soil, it really is contingent on what kind of plants you grow- perennials and annuals are not created equal; what requires deep soil for one may not work for another.
Another thing~ you won’t choke out the weeds with your flowers, mama, sorry If it worked, we’d all be doing that lol. To really get a good firm hold on the weed battle, you need to start by picking through as much of the soil as you can, and ripping out whatever weeds you come across at the roots- any no longer rooted, pull out as well, or they can seed and sprout.
Burlap and newspaper work well as a final layer under the soil once everything is in place, but you’ll always need to weed to some degree- some weeds are annuals and some are perennials, so try to start early to help deter seedlings. Also, the more work you put into now, the less you’ll have later- it’s much easier to remove weeds before your plants are in than after; especially if you’re a novice gardener and haven’t got a lot of experience identifying your plants yet- most will be similar to the weeds when early in development.
Plants that have ground coverage or creep will help eliminate some of the weeds by blocking out the sun~ the same principle applies to your grass as well: typically, you should set your lawn mower to 3″ (most people- and mowers- limit to 2″)- by setting it to 3″, it may look slightly longer, but it will provide enough shade that the sun’s light won’t be able to permeate and feed the weeds. Same thing applies in your garden- plants that creep and cover the ground will block out the sun’s rays too.
The only caveat to creeping, ground coverage and spreading foliage plants is that some can be invasive, and take over your garden if you’re not careful.
Mulching is another way to deal with weeds, but is done as a final step, after the plants are in the ground- and I cannot stress how pivotal it is you try to eradicate as much as possible before planting.

Another method is the obvious- herbicides and weed killers. I personally refuse to put any kind of chemicals like this in my garden, but to each their own- there are some natural choices out there now, and there are also some preventative, pre-emergent herbicide to target germinating seeds before they have a chance to grow. If applied 3 weeks prior to sprouting, it will combat annual weeds. Here’s an article on them:

http://www.homedepotgardenclub.com/Dimensions/Article.aspx?contentid=1263

Vinegar is an excellent natural alternative; the problem being, it will kill just about anything; so it’s best used prior to planting- preferably a few weeks prior- to eliminate any damage to your babies.

Another option is beneficial or companion weeds- these are naturally occurring weeds that aren’t used by humans or domesticated into strains, but can be planted alongside some other domesticated plants to help deter the development of other weeds. The specific types are contingent on the plants you want to put in, and the region.
Another benefit of choosing companion weeds or weed deterring domestic plants is that they also serve to deter pests (rabbits, moles, chipmunks) and insects that will destroy your harvest. You should always expect about 20% of your garden to be consumed by pests and insects, but insectary plants will go a long way to help minimize this.

There are also some veggies that are good weed deterrents- but you seem interested in focusing on flowers so I’ll try to stick with that. Wildflowers in particular work well, so you’re definitely on the right track Roses are another good one that are also good in clay soil.

This is a great website with all kinds of info, including a guide on identifying weeds and how to handle each one specifically:

http://www.dgsgardening.btinternet.co.uk/weeds.htm

Also try joining up a gardening network- they are chock full of awesome mamas and men who are happy to help you through your dilemmas as they pop up; and the added benefit of finding someone who’s in your same region will make a huge difference in the quality of the advice, as it relates to your situation. you’ll even find seed swaps on there, which are always great for finding heirlooms.

I hope this helps in some way~ if you have any other questions, feel free to email me- I’ll try to answer any questions you have
Sing songs and plant flowers!

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Best answer:

Answer by Cerulean Blue
The black walnut tree produces a toxin called juglone.

This toxin is poisonous to a large number of plants, including tomato, potato, blackberry, blueberry, azalea, mountain laurel, rhododendron, red pine and apple.

These plants may be injured or killed within one to two months of growth inside the root zone of the black walnut tree.

Juglone is present in the walnut’s buds, nut hulls, roots, leaves and stems, so ALL of these materials are off limits for mulch and compost.

Many trees, vines, shrubs, groundcovers, annuals and perennials can tolerate the juglone; however, if you want to be safe, find some other source for your mulch.

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